Despite the fact that I’ve spent most of my career managing independent wine shops and restaurants, I’ve always been fascinated by the inner workings of big-box stores. What kind of spreadsheet wizardry allows these retailers to charge such low prices? What wineries are really behind those private labels? No national chain’s wine program impresses me more than Costco’s, especially its Kirkland Signature line.
The Kirkland Signature Barolo is a more recent addition to the warehouse’s incredible wine roster. Now a decent Barolo outside Costco’s fluorescent-lit aisles starts at around $40, but you can buy Kirkland Signature’s version for half that — $19.99 — and stock up for special holiday meals.
What’s So Great About Kirkland Signature Barolo?
Nebbiolo is the grape variety used to make Barolo, and while there are other areas in Italy’s Piedmont region that grow it, Barolo is the most famous, and that “brand name” cache makes its wines more expensive.
Nebbiolo is prized for its unique attributes: it’s relatively light in color (and often has a coppery hue), and yet it’s packed with a complex array of flavors like tart cherries, rose petals, and a little bit of smoky tar. It’s high in acidity, which makes your mouth water, refreshing your palate and making you eager for another bite of food. Plenty of tannins provide structure to the wine; they also bind to protein, so a protein-rich dish will soften nebbiolo’s naturally high tannins and allow you to enjoy more of its fruit flavors.
While the origins of many of the Kirkland Signature wines remain a mystery, Italy’s practice of putting an ID number on the necks of bottles from famous regions means you can look up said ID number and find out that Fontanafredda, a well-known producer in Piedmont, makes this wine. This confirms my suspicions that other Kirkland Signature wines are probably made by well-known producers, and Costco’s huge buying power allows the warehouse to sell it under its private label at a great price.
What’s the Best Way to Enjoy Kirkland Signature Barolo?
Classic pairings for Barolo include braised short ribs, risotto with mushrooms, and anything with truffles. Think decadent, rich, and aromatic — perfect for the holidays and cold wintry nights. After all, Barolo is famous for its aromatic intensity and complexity, so it won’t be overpowered by an equally aromatic dish. Those firm tannins are paired with mouthwatering acidity, so it’ll keep your palate refreshed when eating rich food.
While this isn’t quite as complex, high-quality or ageworthy as higher-end Barolos I’ve had, it definitely drinks like something more expensive. Barolo is known for needing time in the cellar to soften its epic tannins. The Kirkland Signature Barolo could certainly age for a few years, but after an hour in a decanter (or a pitcher, you don’t need to use anything fancy), it’s plenty drinkable.
This versatility would also make it a great choice for gifting, as the recipient could keep it for a bit or drink it right away.
Find it in stores: Kirkland Signature Barolo DOCG, $19.99 for 750 mL at Costco
What Costco wines are you snagging this winter? Tell us about it in the comments below.